The penny loafer is one of the most useful shoes a person can own. It is comfortable enough for a long weekend, smart enough to wear with tailoring, and it slips on without laces. It also raises a few questions that a lace-up does not: what to do about socks, how long your trousers should be, and how to keep suede in good condition. Here are some straightforward answers.

Socks or no socks

Both are correct; it depends on the season and the rest of the outfit. In autumn and winter, with wool trousers or flannel, wear socks. Choose a colour that matches either the trousers or the shoes so the line from leg to foot stays unbroken. Navy, charcoal, brown and bottle green are all reliable. Fine merino or cotton socks sit more neatly inside a loafer than thick sports socks.

In warm weather, with chinos or lighter trousers, a bare ankle looks relaxed and deliberate. Wear no-show socks rather than going entirely sockless: they absorb moisture, help prevent rubbing, and keep the inside of the shoe fresher for longer. Choose a pair cut low enough to stay hidden above the vamp.

Getting the trouser length right

Loafers are low-cut, so trouser length shows more than it does with boots or lace-ups. As a general guide:

  • With socks and tailored trousers, aim for a slight break: the hem just touches the top of the shoe and creases once at the front.
  • With a bare ankle, go shorter, with no break at all, so the hem sits at or just above the ankle bone.
  • A straight or gently tapered leg works best. Very wide hems swallow a loafer; very narrow ones can look pinched.
  • Rolled or cuffed chinos are fine in summer, as long as the roll is neat and narrow.

If your trousers are too long, a tailor can shorten them for a modest cost. It is usually the single most effective change you can make to how a pair of loafers looks.

Caring for suede

Suede is more practical than its reputation suggests, with a little preparation. Before the first wear, treat the shoes with a suede protector spray, following the instructions on the can, and let them dry fully. Repeat every few months, or more often if you wear them in wet weather.

  • Brush regularly with a suede brush, always in one direction, to lift the nap and remove dust.
  • Use a suede eraser on small marks and scuffs before reaching for anything stronger.
  • If the shoes get wet, blot them, stuff them loosely with paper and let them dry at room temperature, away from radiators. Brush once dry.
  • Store them with cedar shoe trees, which help hold the shape and absorb moisture.
  • Rest them for a day between wears.

What to wear them with

Brown suede is the most adaptable colour: it suits navy, grey, stone and olive, and works with denim as well as flannel. Navy suede is a quieter alternative that pairs well with grey and white. Wear them with an Oxford shirt and chinos on a Saturday, or with wool trousers and a blazer during the week. A belt in a similar tone ties the outfit together without needing to match exactly.

Looked after, a pair of suede loafers softens and moulds to the foot with time, and becomes the pair you reach for without thinking.